Cyberdeck · Raspberry Pi 5

Printdeck

A desk slab next to the 3D printer. It runs OctoPrint, shows the print on a 7" touch screen, and plays Spotify through passive speakers. The Pi 5 and the HiFiBerry Amp2 sit on the rear, so every port is open.

Build instructions (PDF) Source on GitHub
The Printdeck from the frontThe Printdeck from the rear, with the Pi and the cables
132 × 221 × 35 mmSize
4 parts · 274 gPrinted
$6.30Filament at $22.99/kg
No supportsAll parts

Print

The STL files are in their print orientation. Load them, do not turn them.

slab
Slab · Navy PLA · 81 g
Front face down. The screen opening is in the first layers: use a smooth sheet for a clean face.
chin
Chin · Orange PLA · 44 g
Front face down. The tongues stand up at the two sides.
back
Back · Orange PLA · 89 g
Front face (the drive side) down. The bosses and the fan posts point up.
foot
Foot · Gray PLA · 60 g
Flat, the four hooks up.

slab.stlchin.stlback.stlfoot.stl

ProfilesOne Cura profile for each part: run python3 cura/make_profiles.py --install with Cura closed, then pick “Speakerdeck - Slate …”.
MaterialPLA, 2.85 mm, 0.5 mm nozzle
Slab, chin0.3 mm layers, 1.5 mm walls, 1.2 mm top and bottom, 20 % grid infill, skirt
Back plate0.3 mm layers, 40 % grid infill, skirt
Foot0.3 mm layers, 20 % grid infill, skirt
SupportsOff for all parts. Every hook, pocket, and slot has 45° faces. A slice of each part with supports on (60°, everywhere) adds 0 g of support.

Parts

Hardware

4×M3 heat-set insert, for a 4.0 mm hole, 4 mm long (display)
4×M3 heat-set insert, for a 4.0 mm hole, max. 5.5 mm long (Pi)
4×M3 × 6 screw (display)
4×M3 × 5 screw (drive)
4×M3 × 16 screw, pan head (fan). It cuts its thread in the printed boss.
3×Twist tie, 15 cm, max. 3 mm wide (orange looks best)

Electronics

1×Raspberry Pi 5 + HiFiBerry Amp2, as one stack on four M3 × 16 male-female standoffs
1×Heatsink for the Pi 5 SoC, max. 16 × 16 × 8 mm, with thermal tape
1×Adafruit 7 inch HDMI display with touch
1×2.5 inch SATA drive with a USB adapter board
1×30 mm fan, 10 mm thick, with a Pi 5 fan plug
1×HDMI ribbon cable kit: HDMI A plug, micro HDMI plug, flat ribbon 40 to 50 cm (the route is 24 cm). A round HDMI cable cannot bend in the 10 mm under the display.
1×USB-A to micro USB cable, thin (max. 3.5 mm), 50 to 60 cm (the route is 36 cm). Straight plugs, max. 30 mm long.
1×USB 3 cable for the drive: micro-B SuperSpeed to USB-A, 15 to 20 cm (the route is 11 cm). Straight micro-B plug, max. 22 mm long from the socket. Cable max. 4.5 mm diameter.
1×Raspberry Pi 27 W USB-C power supply
1×12 to 20 V power supply for the Amp2, with a right-angle 5.5 × 2.1 mm plug

Build

Left and right are as seen from the front of the case.

Step 1: Display
1

Display

slabdisplay4 × insert (4 mm)4 × M3 × 6
  1. Press four 4 mm M3 heat-set inserts into the four bosses in the slab. Use a soldering iron at 220 °C. Stop when the insert is flush: the face is only 3.85 mm away.
  2. Put the slab face down on a soft cloth.
  3. Connect the HDMI ribbon cable and the USB cable to the display.
  4. Put the display into the slab: glass to the front, sockets at the bottom. The cables come out of the open bottom of the slab.
  5. Attach the display with four M3 × 6 screws.
Step 2: Drive
2

Drive

back platedrive4 × M3 × 5
  1. Put the drive on the flat front of the back plate: adapter up, the M3 holes against the plate. Attach it with four M3 × 5 screws from the rear.
  2. Connect the drive cable to the micro-B socket of the drive adapter. Bend the cable to the rear through the notch in the top edge of the plate.
Step 3: Fan and Pi
3

Fan and Pi

back plate (step 2)fanPi 5 + Amp2heatsink4 × insert4 × M3 × 16
  1. Press four M3 heat-set inserts into the four tall bosses on the rear of the back plate.
  2. Put the fan in between the four corner guides on the rear, with the cable toward the right of the case. The label side goes away from the plate: the fan blows onto the Pi.
  3. Attach the fan with four M3 × 16 screws through its corner holes into the four bosses. Turn each screw until the fan touches the boss. Do not tighten more: the thread is in plastic.
  4. Put the heatsink on the SoC of the Pi.
  5. Put the Pi stack on the four bosses: the USB ports up, the USB-C and HDMI ports toward the left of the case. Turn the male ends of the standoffs through the Pi into the inserts.
  6. Lead the fan cable around the right edge of the Pi, above the end of the GPIO header. Connect it to the fan connector of the Pi.

Note. Left and right are as seen from the front of the case.

Step 4: Back plate into the slab
4

Back plate into the slab

slab (step 1)back plate (step 3)
  1. Keep the slab face down. Lead the two display cables through the two notches in the bottom edge of the back plate: the USB cable at the left, the ribbon at the right.
  2. Put the edges of the back plate into the grooves of the slab, at the open bottom. Slide the plate up until it stops at the top wall.

Note. The drive is behind the display plugs. If the plate does not slide, look at the plugs first.

Step 5: Chin
5

Chin

chin
  1. Put the extra length of the display cables into the chin.
  2. Push the chin up onto the slab: its grooves take the bottom of the back plate. Push until the two tongues click.

Note. The chin holds the back plate. The case is now closed.

Step 6: Foot
6

Foot

foot
  1. Put the case on the foot. The foot is 6 mm in from the front and the sides, and it reaches far to the rear.
  2. Push down until the four hooks click into the floor of the chin.
Step 7: Cables on the rear
7

Cables on the rear

3 × twist tie
  1. Lead the drive cable over the top of the Pi. Connect it to the blue USB 3 port next to the board, from above.
  2. Lead the HDMI ribbon to the left, then up the left side of the back plate. Tie it at the pair of holes at the left. Connect it to the micro HDMI port next to the USB-C port.
  3. Lead the USB cable to the right, then up the right side of the back plate. Tie it at the two pairs of holes at the right. Bend it over the top and connect it to the black USB 2 port away from the board, from above.
  4. Connect the printer to the black USB 2 port next to the board. The USB ports point up, so you connect them from the top of the case.
  5. For each tie: put it in through one hole and out through the other, around the cable. Twist it closed on the rear.

Note. No cable shows on the front or the sides. On the rear the cables are part of the look: keep them tight, with no loops.

Connect

The plugs for the printer, the power, and the speakers
  1. Connect the USB-C power supply to the Pi. The port is on the left edge of the Pi.
  2. Connect the 3D printer to the black USB 2 port next to the board, from above.
  3. Put the right-angle plug of the Amp2 power supply into the jack on the left edge of the Amp2.
  4. Connect the speaker wires to the screw terminals on the left edge of the Amp2.

Software

The speakerdeck app (Go) draws the full screen UI on the 7" display: a Music tab for Spotify Connect, and a Print tab with a 3D view of the print, the temperatures, and the printer controls. go-librespot and CamillaDSP run in Docker, and OctoPrint runs as a service. The installation steps are in the README.